ILOCOS: ONE SPLENDORED REGION

I go to Ilocos often because of a case I have to settle. But what seems to be an inconvenience turned out to be a blessing in disguise. Every time I go there, I take the opportunity to tour the place. What I discovered is that, from breathtaking natural and man-made wonders, to historical landmarks, exciting adventures, mouth-watering delicacies, quality local products, and uber-accommodating people, Ilocos is a region that has everything and never fails to amaze. And yet, it is not that expensive at all!


REACHING THE FIRST STOP: PAGUDPUD

If you want to explore Ilocos, your tour would consist of three major places - Pagudpud, Paoay, and Vigan. I suggest you start with Pagudpud which is at the northernmost part of the region and of the country as well. Take either Maria de Leon or Florida bus line. They are the only buses that have 12-hour trips to Pagudpud and depart usually at night to avoid traffic. Other bus lines like Partas, Farinas, Viron and RCJ are up to Laoag only. You may take this 10-hour trip but when you reach Laoag, you will still have to take an hour-and-a half mini-bus ride to Pagudpud which costs P60/person. It's the same if you take a plane ride to Laoag. Bus fares range from P650-P900. Maria de Leon and Florida buses have toilets inside, so less stopovers. Partas is the most expensive, they have no toilet inside, but their couches are the most modern and cleanest, and they have the most number of buses.


HOMESTAYS


When in Pagudpud, spend the whole day lazing on the white pristine sand of its two famous beaches - Saud and Blue Lagoon (Maira-ira). The latter is called "Boracay of the North" because its powdery sand kissing the crystal blue South China Sea is almost comparable with the world's second best beach. The curvaceous shores of Saud Beach on the other hand became famous for being the backdrop of some scenes in the movie "Hihintayin Kita Sa Langit".


At night, rest in one of the many homestays there. These are homes with rooms for rent at P250-P400/person. For families and big groups, the entire house could be rented for P6,000 to P12,000 per night. When I went there with my friend Rona last January, we stayed at Hannah Lou's, one of the popular homestays there. Don't mistake it with Hannah's which is a famous beach resort along Blue Lagoon. Owners of the homestays usually cook for their guests for as low as P50/meal. We had prawn thermidor for only P150. They even guide and provide transportation for you on your North and South of Pagudpud tours. Other famous resorts there are Saud Beach Resort, Tartaruga, and Palm Grove, their prices start at P2,200/room.


NORTH AND SOUTH OF PAGUDPUD WONDERS


The next day, wake up early and have a heavy breakfast because you will spend the entire day touring the most spectacular sights of Ilocos. Choose either the North or South of Pagudpud tour. I suggest you choose both. The North tour includes the Patapat Viaduct near the Cagayan boundary, the 87-foot high Kabigan Falls, Aqua Grande private beach resort (P50 entrance fee), the Bantay-Abot Cave (which is actually a big hole on a big rock), and its so-called other half, the Timmangtang Rock. 

Your excitement will surely intensify when you begin trekking South of Pagudpud where the real treasures of the North are nestled, like the spectacular twenty 70-meter high Windmills of Bangui stretched along its 3-kilometer shoreline. Five miles away is the breathtaking Kapurpurawan White Rock Formation that looks like Noah's Ark amidst a ruggedly stunning wetland. Then proceed to the alluring Cape Bojeador Lighthouse, a towering structure of colonial Spanish design that still functions to this day and overlooks the verdant idyllic town of Burgos. Last destination is the town of Pasuquin. See their salt beds and have a taste of their famed biscuits. These places can be reached by tricycle for P600/tour or van for P3,000 for both tours. Going to Laoag, it will take an hour mini bus ride for P45.



































LAOAG NIGHTSCAPE


You'll probably reach Laoag (Ilocos Norte's capital) by evening which is good as this city is best viewed at night with all the main structures - Capitol Building, Municipal Hall, Sinking Bell Tower, St. William's Cathedral, Tobacco Monument and the plaza - fully and colorfully lighted. Have your dinner either at Dap-ayan (the city foodcourt) for cheap authentic Ilocano meals like poque-poque, or at Saramsam, a cozy diner serving gourmet Ilocano dishes. Pass by Durong's and buy some yummy original malunggay pandesal. 






You may want to spend the night in Laoag where a lot of hotels and cheap lodges abound, rates are from P2,000-P7,000/room/night. Lodge prices are from P300-P450/room good for two persons. Rooms have their own toilets. Popular inns are Texicano, Super Tram and Pichay. Famous hotels include Balay de Blas, Palacio del Laoag, Java, Tiffany and the pricey 5-star Fort Ilocandia built by the Marcoses that houses a casino and golf course. You may decide to go directly instead to Paoay which is just 30 minutes away (P35 jeepney fare) and stay at Casa Dona Emilia which has a pool and rooms with old Spanish feel. Their rates range from P3,500 up. If you stayed in Laoag, when you wake up in the morning visit the Museo Ilocos Norte built by Bongbong Marcos and Laoag Public Market for bags of the irresistibly crunchy corniks before going to Batac.


BATAC-PAOAY SOJOURN

Batac is the hometown of former President Ferdinand Marcos. The welcome arch reads: "Home of great leaders." It is where you will find his elegant yet stately home cum mini office which was converted into his museum. The entrance fee of P50 includes your ticket to his mausoleum where his body, allegedly covered in wax (as told by the caretakers), is in full view. The mansion beside it is off limits to the public. For your merienda, go to the green building adjacent to it and savor the original Ilocos empanada.

Take a short jeepney ride (P12) and you'll be in awe of the world's most photographed house of worship and  Unesco World Heritage site - the Paoay Church. For lunch, enjoy the original pinakbet pizza at Herencia Cafe just across. Afterwards hire a tricycle for P500 for a tour of the serene Paoay Lake, the Sand Dunes (optional buggy ride costs P1,500), Malacanang of the North, and the all-brick hotel Fort Ilocandia. Be sure to drop by Sta. Monica Cathedral in Sarrat. In Currimao you can catch the sunset over the South China Sea in the spacious and romantic private patio of Sitio Remedios owned by St. Luke's Hospital medical director Dr. Joven Cuanang. Stay in one of the villas there for the night or proceed to Vigan which is two and a half hours away, bus fare is P125.

VIGAN'S OLDEN APPEAL

Feel how time stood still in Vigan, capital of Ilocos Sur and is the top tourist destination in the region because of its Heritage Village, also a Unesco World Heritage Site. You'll be amazed at the rows of 18th century colonial stonehouses of rich families still standing in all their glory on cobbled-stoned streets. These abodes are a testament of the grand, intricate and uber-artistic architectural designs and finery, as well as the rich culture, of the past. Every detail is a masterpiece. 

Most hotels in Vigan though are a bit pricey  compared to Laoag. But I recommend Villa Angela, an old Spanish house made into an inn. You'll feel like a distinguished guest when you sleep in one of their cuarto showcasing antique furniture and beddings for only P2800 a night, good for four persons including breakfast. Other famous hotels are Vigan Plaza, Granpa's Inn, and Gordion, their rates range from P3700 up. One cheap lodge is Vigan Hotel which welcomes travellers for P400/night. For a list of other budget accommodations, Vigan's Tourism Authority office is on hand to provide you.

Start your tour in the morning by riding a calesa (horse-drawn carriage) and let the cuchero take you to the other famous landmarks like the Vigan St. Paul Cathedral, the furniture/antique/souvenir shops in Calle Crisologo, Syquia Mansion and the home of our Gomburza hero Father Jose Burgos which were turned into museums. The calesa tour is P150/hour. Request the cuchero to take you to the pagburnayan, a barangay renowned for exquisite jars and pottery. Visit either RG or Ruby pottery house that allows guests to try their hands at molding their own which they can take home, or witness National Folk Artist Fidel Go create his. Next, learn traditional abel iloco weaving in Cristy's, Lola's or Rowilda's factory in barangay Camanggahan. This fabric lasts a lifetime so be sure to buy any of their inabel blankets, bed covers, table runners and placemats, they would surely be heirloom pieces. Not to be missed is Baluarte, former Governor Chavit Singson's ranch and zoo where you can see his Bengal tigers and some wild and exotic animals. If you still have time, visit the Bantay Bell Tower, Hidden Garden and the Buridek children's park and museum.

For a hearty lunch experience, savor the delectable cuisine that Cafe Leona prepares. At night, dine al fresco in any of the restos along Calle Crisologo and afterwards, you may decide to stay longer and party at Legacy bar and disco, or you may want to take a bus back to Manila (P550, haggle further with the conductor) or go back to Laoag to catch your plane the next day. Whichever, don't forget to pass by Vigan Public Market and take home some bagnet, longanisa, sukang iloco, freshly picked red tomatoes, bundles of garlic and onions, also the delicious Marsha's cassava cakes and brownies at their branch in Partas bus terminal just across the market. If you're in a private car, stop over in Candon, Ilocos Sur (about two-hour drive) and have a sweet break at Bistro Candon which serves perhaps the best brazo de mercedes and chocolate cakes in the country. 

What's best, Ilocos is one of those places which can be toured in "installment". The first time, explore Pagudpud. Second time, go sight-seeing in Laoag and Paoay. Third time, appreciate our heritage in Vigan. How ever way you want to travel, every time, Ilocos guarantees you a one-of-a-kind trip of a lifetime. Its splendor is simply unforgettable! In fact, it's this splendor that made me fall in love with the place and inspired me to write this very first travel blog of mine. Thanks for reading.